Ecuador: Trekking, Festivals & the Middle of the World

Hola a todos,

The Galapagos was about animals and exploring the sea, but our next travels took Leslie and me on a trekking adventure, to an ancient festival, and to the middle of the world (click here for travel progress).  

Guayaquil & Riobamba

Once Leslie and I returned from The Galapagos, we spent an afternoon in Guayaquil and then headed for Riobamba with hopes to catch a train called The Devil’s Nose.  This train was supposed to pass through beautiful scenery and is famous for allowing tourists to ride on the roof.  Unfortunately, part of the train line was suspended for repairs, so we spent one night in Riobamba and traveled straight to Lataguna for the next part of our journey.

Latacunga & The Quilotoa Loop

Quilotoa crafter

The city of Latacunga is not much to talk about, but has a nice view of snowcapped volcanoes.  It’s also a great starting point for the “Quilotoa Loop”, a trekking circuit of small towns nestled in the mountains.  Leslie and I decided on a three-day journey (two days of trekking) and packed up our bags with what we thought we would need.  I personally could have packed less.

“Turn Right After the Big Rock”
Our first day, we bussed it to Quilotoa and checked out the Quilotoa crater lake, where we began our quest.  I felt like we were in the Lord of the Rings.  Our trek instructions read, “Climb to the top of the lake and glance across the water.  You should see three sandy spots.  Your goal is to get to the second sandy spot.  Walk around the lake until you reach the second sandy spot...once you get to the two big rocks, turn right.  Don’t turn left as that trail goes down.”  Suddenly every spot looked sandy and there were numerous big rocks.  Later on, we had to remember to turn right after a river.  But, did river really mean river or did it mean creek?  

First guests at the Wicunto Hostel in Guaymas

Suffice it to say, our first day we went without a guide and got lost.  After going back and forth, second-guessing ourselves and seeing the fog set in and the sun drop, we sought help from a little boy who was tending his sheep.  He brought us to his grandmother and we bargained on what it would cost for her to lead us.  For $7.00, we made it to Guaymas and were welcomed by a “tourist center”.  Once we noted that we were looking for a place to stay, we heard the group say yes and then saw them rearrange all of the furniture in one of the few bedrooms.  We learned later that we were the first tourists that had slept in this newly developed center and hostel.  Eighteen families were working together in a cooperative sponsored by the Ecuadorian government.  We even met the sponsor, who gave up his room for us.  

Staying with the Locals
The serendipitous stay was lovely.  The group took us in and showed us their farm and renovations to the old Spanish hacienda.  They also gave us a tour of the garden, introduced us to new vegetables, like the oca (a cross between a turnip and a potato), and invited us into one of their homes.  Inside, we tried the new veggies and watched the family process cevada (barley) and prepare it with some sugar water to create a porridge.

That evening, we ate dinner and listened to the group sing songs in Quichua (an indigenous language) and Spanish.  We went to bed with plenty of blankets, but due to the altitude and cold, I woke up shivering in the middle of the night and it took some time for me to breathe normally.

10-Hour Trek

Trekking from Chugchilán to Isinliví

The next morning, our hosts prepared breakfast for us and decided a price to charge us, the first tourists. We began our second day of trekking with a much better sense of where we were going, even though our instructions had not changed.

We set off for the 10-hour trek (we were behind due to getting lost the day before) with our walking stick in hard to fend off any protective dogs and made our way through the mountains and its valleys.  We passed Chugchilán and reached Isinlivi before dark.

On our way to Isinlivi, we met a few key “guides”.  One guide was a truck driver who was hauling dirt (and men) to and from a small town on our way.  We hitched a ride and walked down the indicated path to find another man, an artist.  He took us to a lookout point, showed us the path and then showed us his woodwork.  He makes furniture for nearby hostels and also etches local scenes out of wood.

White Dogs Everywhere
We walked through a tiny town, said “Buenos Dias” to a group of schoolchildren and hiked beside the river for quite some time until we were soaked with the afternoon showers.  Later in the afternoon, we consulted a few houses to make sure we were on the right track, but my favorite was a sweet old woman who lived on a small farm with cornfields surrounding her house.  Leslie and I walked up to ask for directions when we saw two white dogs, then four, then eight, then twenty.  They seemed to come from nowhere and everywhere.  I had my stick ready to protect from any unwanted attacks, but finally the dogs calmed down as the woman yelled at them to hush.  Her accent was so thick, it was difficult to understand, but she seemed thrilled that we had come to visit. From her, I received the latest weather update and some ambiguous yet obvious (to the locals!) instructions on how to get to the river and bridge.  Shoes drenched and feet exhausted, we arrived at the hostel just in time for dinner.  

The Milk Truck Run

The milk truck

The next day, Leslie and I hitched a ride on a milk truck, one of my favorite experiences in South America.  It was a three-hour ride back to Latacunga (where the rest of our stuff was located) and this truck was tasked with picking up milk from all of the small farms around the area.  I loved it because first, you’re riding in the back of an open-air truck bed surrounded by other locals and large barrels of milk.  Second, the scenery at 3,000 meters (10,000 feet) is breathtaking - the clouds moving rapidly through the deep blue sky and over the green mountains and the farms speckled throughout the countryside.  Finally, the process of milk delivery was great.  I had the opportunity to see how the milk was gathered and at times, help close the barrels!  

Otavalo

Inti Raymi Festival
Leslie and I went to Otavalo specifically for the Inti Raymi festival, a summer solstice festival, that many local people celebrate each year by going down to the Peguche waterfall around midnight and cleansing themselves.  The ritual also includes lots of food, drinks, dancing from house-to-house and Shaman blessings.  Leslie and I went with a local couple, Marcos and Aurelie (the Spanish couple we met in the Galapagos), and Bruno from Brazil.  The majority of us, including me, participated fully in the rituals.  The waterfall water was incredibly cold (about 12 C or 54 F) and it wasn’t much warmer outside, but the experiencing was refreshing.  

Afterward, we warmed up by drinking canelazo - a cinnamony drink with or without aguardiente (a sugar cane alcohol) and dancing from house to house.  The dance was easy, you just jumped into the circle (around the musicians) and bounced stepping forward until someone turned around and then the entire group starting going the opposite direction.  Musicians also jumped in and out of the circle.  Most houses were open for this event and we stayed from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. enjoying the festivities.

Sunday Market

Guinea pigs for sale

Otavalo is also famous for its Saturday market, a seemingly endless array of crafts ranging from earrings to blankets to traditional belts and hats.  We also ventured over to the animal market, where everything from cows to guinea pigs are sold, generally to eat!

Exploring the Surrounding Area
Apart from the city, we took a jeep tour with Aurelie, Marcos, and Bruno to a, a small town that produces leather and a tree that is said to have healing powers.

After the festivities and the market, Leslie and I set off for the capital of Ecuador, where we would part ways.
Quito

Leslie and I decided to stay in downtown Quito to take in the full glory of Quito’s colonial days.

Downtown

Main Plaza in Quito

While deciding both our next steps for our trips, we observed the presidential address and flag-raising ceremony, held at 11 a.m. every Monday, explored the San Franciscan church, climbed the tower of a large gothic church and sampled as much food as possible.  My favorite was a goat stew, generally served for breakfast.

Nonprofit Tour
Through one of my previous acquaintances, I met with The Lending Journey contact in Quito.  The purpose of the organization is to provide microfinancing to small businesses or individuals, usually about $300 to be paid over a six-month period.  The lead contact provided us with her experiences working with 200 individuals, including the challenges and successes.  She also introduced us to one of their success stories, a woman who sells luggage and backpacks in a local “mall”.  

Making my way out....Middle of the World

While traveling to the border of Ecuador and Colombia, I decided to make a very touristy stop at Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World).  Mitad del Mundo claims to be on the equator and as such has built a monument to commemorate the discovery and location.  However, there is a private, fun site about 200 meters from the official monument that claims that it is the actual site.  I visited both and observed some of the experiments (balancing an egg on a nail, water going straight down a drain instead of counter or clockwise, walking a line and working harder to keep your balance, etc.) that helped support the latter site´s claim!  


Observations

Otavalo´s craft market

• Quests - I absolutely love a little adventure.  For me, it was freeing to venture through mountains and valleys with little more than a walking stick, some barely adequate instructions, a confusing path, and a few locals along the way.
• Nonprofits/NGOs - Not as easy as you think.  It´s not enough just to want to help in your own way; the people have to want your help as well.
• Festival - Even as a tourist, I felt welcomed at the Inti Raymi festival.  I could easily dance and participate in the festivities.  
• Craft Market - In Otavalo, the the craft market was the best I´ve seen anywhere.  Cheers to incredible variety and quality!

Next:  Venturing into Infamous Colombia! 

Saludos,
Ashley

Gothic cathedral in Quito

Middle of the World monument

Standing on the actual middle of the world

Balancing an egg on a nail 

Here I am!

The Galapagos: Home of the Giant Tortoises & the Blue-Footed Boobies

¡Hola!

Below is my latest update.  You can view my progress by clicking this link.  Also, don't forget the extra photos at the end. Enjoy.

Vista of Cuenca

Cuenca - Not Quite Home After an overnight bus from Peru and crossing the border into Ecuador, I bought a six-hour bus ride to Cuenca.  Cuenca is one the cities I had considered studying abroad in about seven years ago, but I ended up in Mexico.  It was great to finally see this city that I could have called home.  Cuenca is a beautiful colonial city that exudes a calm, peaceful atmosphere with the greenest main plaza I’ve seen in South America.  Apart from getting to know the city, I traveled to the ruins of Ingapirca, the most important ruins in Ecuador and a union of the Inca and Cañari cultures. Leslie, whom I met in Chile a few months before, also contacted me to let me know she would be in Cuenca the next day.  I ended up exploring the city of Cuenca and all of Ecuador with her.  

Ingapirca & Museum Exhibits

Cuenca's main plaza

During my Ingapirca tour, I met Pedro, who was traveling with his mom and 90-year-old grandmother (very inspiring!).  They offered to take me back to Cuenca in their taxi, but Pedro ran into a friend who was exhibiting a display at the museum for Inti Raymi or Festival of the Sun, which is celebrated around the summer solstice, June 21.  We decided to help his friend create the exhibition and as a result, received a VIP tour of the inner workings of the museum.  

Pedro was staying at a hostel called Cafecito and by coincidence, so was another friend, Leslie (more below).  I met Leslie at the cafe/hotel, and then also by coincidence, Pedro also joined us. We talked about music, sociology, anthropology, and anything else that came up during the next five hours.  It was a great evening.  Leslie and I also decided to meet up the next day and go to a museum before I jetted off to Guayaquil to start making plans for Galapagos.

Ruins of Ingapirca

Leslie is from South Africa, but was living in London before she took a year off from work to travel South America.  Leslie is a teacher and child psychologist.  She also practices and teaches yoga.  We originally met in Chile in March, but had been traveling separately until we met again in Ecuador.  

Planning Next Steps with Leslie - Galapagos
The next day, I talked to Leslie about the Galapagos and wanting to know more information, we spent the entire day researching.  She eventually decided to go with me and we booked flights to the islands.  That evening we celebrated by joining in Cuenca’s Corpus Christi festival.  Our main focus was trying all of the delicious sweets that everyone was selling on the streets.  Unfortunately, while we were doing research and taking care of business in an internet cafe, Leslie’s bag was stolen, along with her camera (luckily no passport or other documents were inside!).  The teenager working at the cafe said he saw nothing, so were out of luck.  We went to report the incident to the police and they took their time driving to pick us up in their fancy police truck.  Since Leslie was without a camera, I promised to take and share our trip photos with her.  However, she also had a Blackberry phone with a decent camera.  

Galapagos!

I have wanted to visit these mysterious islands since my younger sister, Courtney, began talking about the curious blue-footed boobies and the giant tortoises.  Unfortunately, she was unable to come, but I’ve scoped out the islands so that when she does decide to go, she’ll have the inside scoop.

Leslie and I researched and met with many travel agencies and in the end, decided to do a seven-day visit independently.  Most tour books and agencies say you can’t do the Galapagos justice if you do it yourself (instead of a cruise), but I disagree.  It was more of a hassle to plan out every day, but I found it a very rewarding and magical experience.  Below I’ve detailed the highlights of each island.  If you would like more details, feel free to email me or set up coffee!  :)  

Santa Cruz

Land lizard in Darwin's Research Center

• Flew into Galapagos and saw each individual island from the plane.  Very cool!
• Found no public transportation to the main city, Puerto Ayora, so hitched a ride in the back of a pick up.  This city was our base during the stay.
• Instantly saw wildlife!  The coolest thing about the Galapagos is that you can get close to the wildlife.  The animals are accustomed to humans and don’t consider them predators, so they don’t run or fly away unless you get too close.  
• Took a water taxi over to Bahía de los Alemanes (German Bay), swam, gazed at Darwin's ground finches, and through Leslie’s curiosity and tenaciousness, we scored an impromptu tour of an ecological hotel.  They have their own bio sewer system (no chemicals) to help decrease ground and water contamination.
• Swam at Turtle Bay (named such because many sea turtles lay their eggs on the beaches) and on our way there, saw at least four of the seven species of Charles Darwin’s finches.  He studied their beaks and habitats before he proposed evolution.  If you’re interested in more details, read On the Origin of Species or just check out the Wikipedia article. (Thanks to Chuck and Jean Fowler for getting me excited about the finches!)

Floreana

The blue-footed boobies and I on North Seymour

• Visited the turtle reserve and saw giant turtles chomping down on their lunch, giant banana leaves.
• Explored the island, the lava tunnels, and an old stone statue.
• Snorkeled with giant sea turtles, penguins, and sea lions!  This was my first time to snorkel so I almost hyperventilated at first (how do you breathe and swim at the same time?),  but left my death grip of the guide when I saw a sea lion in front of me.  Somehow, I was able to breath perfectly after that!

North Seymour

• Visited the flattest island I’ve ever seen, covered with blue-footed boobies and two types of frigate birds (great and magnificent).  You practically trip over them they’re so tame.  My favorite moment was seeing the cartoon-like blue-footed boobies do their mating dance.
• Watched a lone sea lion cub search for its mother.  In the process, the cub checked out our group, but without success.
• Ended our day with a taste from the local merienda, a cheap 3-dollar set option for dinner.  Leslie and I did this every night, followed by a treat of ice cream!  My favorite was a mix of maracuya (passion fruit) and manjar (dulce de leche).

Isabela

• 

  Sea lions resting on the rocks on North Seymour

  Stayed overnight on the island and climbed a live volcano with gorgeous and varied terrain.
• Endured the tour guide asking me out to dance and insisting that my “no” meant “yes”, because that’s what some girl from California said about American girls.  I assured him that “no” was “no”.  I wasn’t alone either as he asked another girl on the tour if she wanted to dance with him.  Loved the professionalism.
• Met a wonderful couple from Spain, Aurelie and Marcos, and spent a few evenings out on a beachside bar.  My new favorite drink is a caipirinha, a Brazilian concoction with lime.
• Snorkeled with huge manta rays and beautiful fish.

Back at Santa Cruz

• Stayed at Santa Cruz another day instead of venturing out to San Cristobal because our tour guide didn't time everything just right.  We missed the boat, literally.  We got our money back, but not the opportunity to see another island.
• Leslie and I went our separate ways because she wasn’t feeling well that day.  She had a relaxing day with friends and snorkeling close by, while I explored the lava tunnels and Chato Tortoise Reserve.
• Met a local on the public bus to the lava tunnels and decided to go straight to the reserve as his farm was in front of it.  Helped him plant something for his farm, ate sugar cane straight from the plant, and tried an orange off one of his trees.  From there, I explored enormous tunnels and tread cautiously through the tortoise reserve.  Someone got lost years ago and ended up dying (being a past Israeli soldier, he tried to survive off of the land and accidentally ate something poisonous).
• Hitched a ride with two Argentinian girls who were on vacation and had rented a taxi.  It was a better option than the bus back.

Observations

• Two is Nice - It was a joy traveling with someone else for an extended period of time.  It also made finding tours or day trips MUCH easier.  Thanks, Leslie!
• Getting Close to Nature - It fascinated me how easily and how closely you could approach wildlife in Galapagos.  They considered you just a part of life and nothing to be scared of.  
• Snorkeling World - If you haven’t done this, do it.  I am enthralled with the new world underneath the water’s surface and intend to explore more.
• Fight for Service - The experience at the Galapagos was unforgettable, but despite the expense of getting there, that doesn’t mean you always receive the best service.  Leslie and I had to stand up for ourselves to make sure that we got what we needed and that we weren’t cheated out of an experience.  The Galapagos was no exception to this.
• Cold Waters - Despite the Galapagos being islands, the water can be quite cold.  I expected it to be much warmer; however, this didn’t keep me from enjoying anything.
• Lonesome George - No, I didn't see him before he and his entire species disappeared.  I saw his home, but he was hiding the day Leslie and I visited.  Maybe he was sick?
• Visiting the Galapagos - Do it and do soon.  With the influx of tourists and the increase in hotels, this habitat is in danger of disappearing or at least being what it is today.  

Next:  More of Ecuador and into Colombia!

Saludos,
Ashley

Welcome to Galapagos

Sally light-foot crabs in Puerto Ayora

Puerto Ayora's main harbor

Water lizard on Floreana

Isabela's harbor at sunset

Yellow warbler on Santa Cruz (no photos, but great videos of finches!)

Lava tunnels near volcanos on Isabela - Leslie, Aurelie and me

Volcano on Isabela

Two Argentinian girls and I in the lava tunnels on Santa Cruz

Hanging out - two sea lions on Floreana

Female turtle at the Floreana Tortoise Reserve

Blue-footed boobie hiding his feet

A magnificent frigate bird in flight

Where's my mother?  Baby sea lion on North Seymour

Female frigate bird

Blue-footed boobie's mating call

Another magnificant frigate bird in flight

The mating ritual

The Coast of Peru: The Nasca Lines, the Poor Man’s Galapagos & the Beach

¡Hola!

After Laurie left, I spent time adjusting to being on my own again and planning my next move.  I decided to spend minimal time in Lima and instead explore the rest of the Peruvian coast before heading into Ecuador. 

In front of the six-seater ready to see the Nasca Lines!

Grayer Than Seattle - Lima

Laurie and I have flown from the jungle to Lima (the capital of Peru) so that she could catch her flight back to the States.  After Laurie left for the airport, I decided to leave the chronically gray city and head for Nasca (also spelled as Nazca) to fly over the mysterious Nasca Lines.

Aerial View of the Nasca Lines

About 1500 years ago, archeologists believe that the Nasca people created geoglyphs (simple and/or stylised figures) in the desert sands.  The figures ranges from hummingbirds, monkeys, to spiders and condors.  The lines are shallow designs made in the ground by removing reddish pebbles and uncovering the whitish ground beneath. 

One of the figures of the Nasca Lines: a Condor

Three Hungarians and I joined a pilot and his co-pilot in a six-seater plane and went for a 30-minute ride over these lines.  It was astounding.  The figures are well-preserved, easy to see, and beautiful.  Neither I, nor the rest of the world, have any idea why they were created, but still very cool. 

The Poor Man’s Galapagos - Pisco, Islas Ballestas and Paracas National Reserve

After the flight over the Nasca Lines, I bounded up the coast to see what has been coined the “Poor Man´s Galapagos”.  The Islas Ballestas were home to sea lions, seals, a variety of birds, and penguins.  The ride and view were quite nice.  I also met an American man who is now living in Costa Rica, but was taking vacation in Peru.  He has lived all over the world, including Spain and Africa, but chose to move to Costa Rica based on the diversity in climate and terrain.  He previously worked in Silicon Valley and is now retired.  We chatted and enjoyed the boat ride.  Later on, we all went to Paracas National Reserve where we could see the desert coast of Peru.  There is literally no vegetation in most parts and the contrast between the beaches and the water was gorgeous.  The trip was nice, but as I was soon to find out, nothing like the actual Galapagos.

On the beaches of Paracas National Reserve

Taylor and I in front of a monastery

While traveling to my next destination, Trujillo, I made a stop in Lima (4-hour bus layover) and met Taylor, the founder of the Potter´s Hand, whom Laurie and I had met in the jungle.  He showed me around the downtown area, we had coffee and lunch, went to a Dominican and Franciscan monastery and enjoyed some incredible pisco sours over conversation.  Taylor claims they are the best in Lima and I would have to agree.  The one pisco sour was just the solution I needed to sleep well on my overnight bus to Trujillo.  Once we boarded the bus, I was out in a few minutes!

The Chimu & Moche - Pre-Inca Civilizations Around Trujillo

There were two pre-Inca civilizations around the city of Trujillo, which left some rather impressive ruins, Chan Chan and the Huaca de la Luna.  After breakfast, a decent cappuccino, and a city bus ride cramped up beside the window, I arrived at the Chan Chan museum.  The museum was fairly bare, but gave me an adequate introduction to the Chimu peoples.  After the museum, I walked about 1.5 kilometers to the entrance of the ruins, where it would be another kilometer or so to reach the ruins themselves.  A taxi driver offered to drive me, I naturally declined, and then he offered me for free, but slightly annoyed I declined again. 

I was ready to walk; however, when a nice jeep passed by and stopped, I decided to get in.  I´ve learned to trust my instincts in situations like this.  From my point of view, there may have been a reason that the taxi tried to offer me a “free” ride (e.g., general safety of the area).  However, taxis will still try to charge you even if it seems free.  The couple from Lima not only offered a free ride, but also asked me to join their tour.  This was a great decision on my part.  In this way I was able to really understand the unmarked ruins and receive a ride to the next ruins.  Awesome. 

Huaca de la Luna ruins

Later that evening in the main plaza, I ran into a German girl whom I had met in Nasca. She was going to an art museum, so I joined her, and the next day we decided to meet up for the second ruins the next day.  The Huaca de la Luna is a must see because it´s very well-preserved and provides great insight into the lives of the Moche peoples.

In Bolivia at Proyecto Horizonte, the organization I volunteered at for a month, I met Brendan.  Brendan is an Irish guy who retired and is now traveling the world, but stops to volunteer from time to time.  He was at Proyecto Horizonte for six months.  He and a friend whom he met in Asia happened to be around the Trujillo area, so we ended up meeting in Huanchaco, a small beach town close to Trujillo.  It was great to meet up and share our stories and the laziness of the beach town. 

The Beach & On to Ecuador

Huanchaco beach at sunset

I spent the next few days with Brendan and his friend relaxing in hammocks, reading, and hanging out at a few restaurants close to the beach.  Relaxing is not the easiest thing for me to do, but it was nice for a while.  It made me completely prepared for my long bus ride into Ecuador.

Next:  Cuenca and The Galapagos Islands!

Saludos,

Ashley